Monty Don shares tips for pruning fruit trees
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February is the month of romance and the final month of winter in the UK. February is a month to draw to an end to the dark months and begin planning for the brighter spring days. Getting out in your garden can be a great way to finish growing jobs and prepare for the month ahead despite the bitter temperatures and frosty conditions. There are a variety of gardening jobs that “must” be completed in February, according to William Mitchell of Sutton Manor Nursery, to get it ready for the spring and to prolong the shoots from winter.
However, the gardener urged that before starting the February jobs Britons must be up to date with all of the January gardening jobs that must be completed. William said: “Staying up-to-date and on top of your gardening jobs is essential for a healthy and successful garden.”
Top February gardening jobs
1. Protect all blossoms on apricot, nectarine and peach trees
In Britain, the softest fruit and top fruit trees are very resilient even while dormant over the winter as temperatures don’t fall low enough to harm them. Those living in extreme climates, such as the north of Scotland or high in the hills, may need to choose cold-resistant rootstocks and cultivars, according to William.
Frost, however, can easily damage the new growth and blossoms in late winter and early spring. If severe frosts threaten, the expert noted that protection should be maintained for two weeks after flowering not only for plants in full bloom but also for buds and even fertilised flowers.
William explained: “Frost can form when the temperature drops below zero degrees. Heat is lost when it radiates out on a clear night. Due to its heavier weight than warm air, cold air forms on trees and other objects, dislodging warm air. As a result, objects near the ground such as vegetable patches and shrub-growing fruits become chilled and freeze.
“Flowing air naturally collects at the lowest point or against a barrier on sloping ground. To improve air drainage, consider removing some lower growth on a fence or hedge to create a gap. Place the larger more sturdy fruit trees at the bottom, and the smaller ones at the top if there is no other alternative.”
2. Prune winter flowering shrubs that have finished flowering
To “encourage strong, healthy shoots and improve flowering”, deciduous shrubs that flower in late winter, spring, and early summer require annual pruning, instructed the expert. He said: “Pruning these early-flowering shrubs annually also prolongs their lives.”
Depending on the shrub, early-flowering shrubs are pruned after flowering (in late winter to spring and early summer). They usually bloom on the growth of the previous year.
William added: “When you prune straight after flowering, your plants have the maximum amount of time to develop young growth before the end of the summer to provide flowers for the following year.
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“It depends on the type of shrub, but all early-flowering shrubs require routine removal of damaged, diseased, or dead wood. If there are any damaged or dead shoots, cut them back to their point of origin or to the ground.
“Once that is done, remove some of the stems to the ground level to keep the bush open and prevent congestion. Last but not least, trim back any weak, spindly or twiggy shoots to the ground so that the plant can concentrate on strong new shoots that will yield the best flowers.”
3. Kill perennial weeds
To remove these pesky plants, they can be forked out, removing all the roots, and burnt or put out with the rubbish. Alternatively, gardeners can use a “weed-suppressing mulch or membrane” to control the growth of weeds, according to the expert.
He added: “Hoeing and mulching can control most annual weeds, but perennials tend to grow fast and strong, so a little more effort is required to eradicate them.
“Wildflowers like spear thistle, valerian, and celandines, as well as ornamental plants like curled tansy, and grasses, are perennial weeds. As some weeds thrive in particular soil types or circumstances, it’s impossible to predict what will be a problem.”
The root type of perennial weeds can be used to identify and treat them accordingly. If you know what you’re dealing with, whether it’s deep tap roots or short, spreading weeds, you’ll be able to take effective action. But William warned not weeding can be “one of the biggest mistakes” in the garden so it’s best to do this when they first appear.
4. Prepare seed beds for vegetables
It is common for people to view a seedbed as an unimportant part of a garden, but the expert explained that it’s “important” to remember that seed germination and early growth of plants have a significant influence on their final quality. He said: “For example, if hedges or buildings shade the seedbed, seedlings may be weak and spindly. Seeds usually don’t do well if they become waterlogged (or if they dry out), so drainage is paramount.
“Seed beds are similar to vegetable beds, except that the soil must only be forked to a shallow depth. It will be necessary to dig and prepare a new bed if it has never been used to grow plants before. It will require less preparation if plants have already been grown on the bed as most stones will have been removed and the soil is broken up.”
While vegetable beds are usually thought of as autumn jobs, preparing your vegetables at the end of winter will allow for longer, healthier growths. Preparing seed beds allows for seeds to be brought on before being moved to their final position later in the season for full growth.
5. Fertilising flowering shrubs and roses with slow-release fertiliser
According to the gardener, February is the “ideal time” to prepare your flowering shrubs for spring growth. William explained: “The rose needs a continuous supply of nutrients throughout the growing season in order to perform at its best. Not only do healthy roses bloom better, but they are also more resistant to disease and insects. Keeping a gardening calendar handy where you can write down when and how you fertilise will help you stay organised.”
Roses usually awaken from their winter slumber in late March or early April and should be fertilised when the first buds start to sprout at the latest.
The expert added: “Fertilising them with a slow-release fertiliser in February allows for early growth and protection before the first growth appears. In late June or early July, second fertilisation is recommended for repeat-flowering rose varieties.”
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