FOR many years, lavish resorts, a glamorous nightlife and year-round sun have put Dubai and Abu Dhabi at the top of luxury holidaymakers’ lists.
But 20 miles down the road in the city of Ajman, the scene is a little different.
It’s the smallest of seven emirates in the United Arab Emirates, with a quieter and more understated atmosphere, but still just a 30-minute taxi ride from Dubai airport.
Among those in the know, it’s the hidden gem of the Middle East. But now that the UAE has been moved to the amber list, this overlooked city should be right on the radar of fully-jabbed Britons, who won’t need to quarantine after landing back in the UK.
Staggering change
Five-star hotels overlooking palm tree-lined promenades are as luxurious as the ones in its neighbouring city.
But the appeal is in its more tranquil atmosphere, something which sets it apart from Dubai’s over-the-top extravagance.
Leaving Dubai’s bustling airport, we hop in a cab and drive through the sprawling Emirate of Sharjah.
It’s well known for staging international cricket, but the city struggles to appeal to western tourists, as alcohol is strictly prohibited.
That is not the case in Ajman. Stepping out of the car, we are within walking distance of an abundance of fine restaurants, bars and now — in a staggering change from years gone by — a number of off-licences selling booze.
The fact that it is lesser known means that Ajman is more affordable than the emirates of Dubai and Abu Dhabi too.
You will make back the £20 taxi fare from the airport in just a day here. But that’s not to say the quality is compromised. Many of the large resorts belong to hotel groups and are just as glamorous as their sister hotels in Dubai.
Our first stop is the Fairmont, which sits at the edge of the water and has immaculate and stylish seaview rooms overlooking a 200-metre stretch of sandy beach. Guests can rent one of the intimate cabanas which surround the pool, while kids can while away the hours playing at day clubs. There are also tennis courts, a water sports centre and basement sports bar.
Among the hotel’s restaurants are an Italian, Gioia, the laidback Azrak Lobby Lounge and a casual pool bar serving snacks. Our best meal, though, was at the Turkish restaurant Kiyi, where everything from the food to the decor was traditional.
But if it’s a decent curry you’re after, The Saray hotel’s Mejhana restaurant has one of the best. Dishes of shrimp tagine and butter chicken are served from an Arabic and Indian-themed kitchen. Considering the highest number of expats working in the UAE come from India, you can expect nothing but the best.
Above the restaurant are a number of glamorous suites and colourful rooms with patterned carpets that keep in theme with the surroundings.
The Saray is one of many modern hotels now lining the busy beachfront.
These shores have changed quite drastically in just a few decades.
Back in the Nineties, Ajman’s population was about 100,000 and there was certainly no hint of the arrival of hotels such as Marriott’s Ajman Saray and Fairmont Ajman. Now it is 500,000 and new buildings have cropped up all over the place.
There is plenty to see in the city too, including the 18th-century fort, which is now a museum — although it is currently being refurbished — and kids will love the Ajman stud farm. Here you can visit the Sheikh’s horses, but make sure to book an appointment beforehand.
Turquoise waters
There are also a couple of souks nearby selling gold and clothing, and a spectacular 18-hole course at the Al Zorah Golf Club, which has two lakes and sweeping views across the city.
We headed to the outdoor activity centre Quest For Adventure, just a short journey from the Fairmont hotel.
Clambering into kayaks, we roamed the lagoon and nature reserve by water. Surrounded by tall green mangroves, it felt more like we were in the depths of the jungle than a bustling city.
Although there’s plenty to keep a family occupied for a full week here in Ajman, the next emirate north-east, Ras Al-Khaimah, is worth a visit.
GO: Ajman, United Arab Emirates
COVID: The UAE is on the amber list. Anyone arriving from the UK must present proof of a negative PCR test, taken within 72 hours of arrival.
Travellers flying to Dubai will also need to complete a Health Declaration Form and a Quarantine Form and must register their details on the Covid-19 DXB app.
GETTING THERE/STAYING THERE: Four nights’ full-board at the 5H Fairmont Ajman is from £799pp, including flights from Heathrow and private transfers on selected dates in November.
Four nights’ all-inclusive at the 5H Ajman Saray is from £699pp, including flights from Heathrow and transfers on selected dates in October. To book a package, see travelbag.co.uk or call 0207 001 4112.
OUT & ABOUT: Mangrove Kayak Nature Tours at Quest For Adventure costs £35 per adult and £27 per child (aged four to 12). The tour lasts two hours and tickets must be booked in advance at questforadventure.net.
While you are there, head to the mighty Hajar mountain range, where Bear Grylls has opened an explorers’ camp.
Before journeying back to Dubai airport, we took one last look over the white sandy beach and turquoise waters.
A great benefit of Ajman is that it is near Dubai. But the best thing about the place is that it ISN’T Dubai.
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